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Not
many people like to work to hard in the garden.
So we feel that gardening you should do as much or as little as
you like,
and still get wonderful results. Good results do not necessarily
come from lots of toil, and so a low maintenance garden need not
necessarily be a second rate garden. All it takes is careful
planning to create and maintain an attractive but low labor one.
for instance weed smothering ground cover plants can if
planted with planning almost eliminate weeding. Ground cover
plants can also give all year round glorious displays.
Lawns can also be low maintenance if you lay a slow growing
variety it should only need mowing once a week, always try to
avoid rye grass in the seed if you do not want to be mowing two
or three times a week at the height of the growing season.
Alternatively you may consider paving or decking which will
eliminate the lawn mower run each week completely.
we have laid out some helpful advice for that low maintenance
garden. |
 
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Always make
sure your garden surfaces are weed free and well dug right from
the start.
then mark out your flower beds and other features with sand,
this is the best way to mark out as it can be changed easily if
you do not like the final shapes.
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If you are going
for a lawn you should at this point set your chosen edging in
place. the edging can be either brick paving slabs wooden
railway sleepers or logs, alternatively you could use what ever
edging you wish as long as it is sturdy and will not need a lot
of upkeep
Walls only need to be one or
two bricks high unless you wish to have raised beds for easy maintenance
with out the bending. In which case you should make the wall as
tall as you feel is comfortable for you and will also look good
and fit in with the garden design. |
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Minimize
the open ground space so that weeds can not get hold and not
become a nuisance later on.
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The best way to do
this is to dig your beds well and dig in a lot of well rotted
compost then let it stand for a week or tow, at this point any
weeds that had lay seed should now start to be showing. spray
this little weed with a Systemic weedkiller that contains
glyphosate based weed killer. which will kill the root of the
plant as well as the main plant... When using this kind of weed
maintanece , you should always read and follow all the
instruction that come with the product.
Alternatively if you are to be an organic gardener then you will
have to dig them all out, making sure you get all the root.
then you should cover the bed with a weed resistant landscape
material which will let the water through but the weeds can not
get a foot hold or grow through. |
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Respect your soil, as pressure from
roving feet can spoil the structure of the soil and eventually
will mean you will have to deep dig your beds. But if the soil
is never trodden on, it will never need to be deep dug. So
design all your beds so that you can reach then with out trading
on them. if you are going to have large beds you should place
12" to 18" paving stones at a discreet and reachable position,
with out having to tread on the soil. |
Avoid heavy mulches
where you
want your plants to self seed. |
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Although self
seeding groups are easy to maintain as they plant them selves,
you will need to watch them to stop them taking over. also if a
wanted plant can seed so can the unwanted weeds. |
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Growing poppies can
be as easy as you make it as they re seed them selves, once they
are in your garden you could have them for as long as you want
them there.
To plant your first seeds fill a pot with some soil, press
it down, sprinkle the seeds on top and then sprinkle a light
coating of soil on top of this. It takes about two weeks to
start sprouting. Water from the bottom or mist the top to keep
them moist. keep the pots in semi shade. once plant is
about 3 or 4" replant them to your garden. and sit back and
watch the return to you year after year. |
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| Seed
- sow April/May or August/September in a sunny border outdoors
and only just cover the seed. Autumn sown plants may require
protection from frosts in cold winters. The seed usually
germinates in 2 - 3 weeks |
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Prefers
a poor sandy soil and a sunny position but is easily grown in an
ordinary garden soil. Succeeds in a hot dry position. Plants
grow well in maritime climates. A very ornamental plant, it is
commonly grown in the flower garden and there are many named
varieties. |
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There are many
species of centaurea, but the most readily available as seeds or
plants are Centaurea cyanus, cornflower, or
bachelor’s-button; C. americana, basket flower; and C. montana,
mountain bluet, or perennial cornflower.
No matter
what you call them, cornflowers, basket flower, or the
old-fashioned blue-bottle, members of the genus Centaurea
are wonderful additions to a garden. Even if they weren’t
great cut flowers, which they are, the blue color of the species
would make them desirable. They are grown in gardens primarily
from seeds. Cornflowers
are appropriately named--they grow wild in corn fields and
bloom basically until the harvest season begins. |
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Growing
Cornflowers
Centaureas are very easy to grow from seed started indoors or
out. The taller varieties, which are so useful in cutting
gardens, may not be readily available as plants at garden
centers and should be started from seed. Perennial mountain
bluet simply takes a little longer to germinate than the annual
kinds; started early enough, it may bloom the first year it is
planted.
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| Outdoor Planting |
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Indoor
Planting |
Sow annual Centaureas
outdoors in late September in mild winter areas; they will start
to grow before the first fall of frost and will bloom earlier
the following spring. In colder zones, sow seeds in early spring
as soon as the ground can be worked. Sow perennials in early
spring or fall.
Because the seeds germinate readily, you do not need to sow seed
thickly. If you are sowing in spring, it’s a good idea to make
more than one sowing of the annuals because Centaureas
are not long-blooming plants. Sow two to three times at two week
intervals to have flowers through summer. If you sow in fall,
plan to re-sow at least once the following spring.
Sow seeds about 1/2 inch deep in any good garden soil.
Centaureas prefer slightly alkaline soil, but they are really
not fussy.
Keep the seedbed moist until germination occurs—in 7 to 10
days for annuals, 2 to 3 or 3-1/2 weeks for perennials.
Annual cornflowers perform best when they are slightly crowded.
Thin the annuals to stand anywhere from 6 to 12 inches apart,
depending on the species or cultivar. Space perennials 2 to 3
feet apart
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Sow seeds indoors
about one month before you want to plant the seedlings outdoors
which you can do as soon as the ground can be worked or before
the average last spring frost in your area.
Fill individual peat pots, seed-starting flats, or
3-inch-diameter containers with a commercial seed-starting mix.
Moisten the mix and let it drain.
Sow the seeds in rows in the flats. Sow 3 to 4 seeds per pot and
cover the seeds with a 1/2” layer of the mix because
centaureas need darkness to germinate. Spritz the mix with water
to moisten.
Cover the containers with clear plastic to keep the mix moist
while the seeds are germinating and place in a warm location
(60-70 degrees).
When the seedlings emerge, remove the plastic covers and put the
pots in a sunny location or under grow-lights. Water as needed
to keep the mix moist (not soggy).
When seedlings are about 2 inches tall and have at least one
pair of true leaves, snip off all but the strongest plant in
each pot at soil level. (The first set of leaves is cotyledon
leaves they usually do not resemble the true leaf shapes of the
plants.)
Fertilize the seedlings once while they are growing indoors with
a water-soluble fertilizer.
Centaureas grow best if you transplant them to the garden before
they are taller than four inches.
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Plant Cornflowers
in full or partial sun in any average, slightly alkaline soil.
Although they are not too particular about fertility, you may
want to dig some compost or dried manure into the soil before
planting a 1 to 2" layer should do.
Transplant on a calm, cloudy day, so the plants can begin to get
acclimated before having to contend with sun and wind.
Space the annuals about 12" apart. Give the perennials room
to spread space them at least 2 feet apart.
Taller varieties (including mountain bluet) may need support,
because the stems have a tendency to become floppy as they grow.
Stake or cage them when you transplant.
Water the plants well immediately after planting.
All Cornflowers look good as part of an informal or wildflower
garden. They are especially attractive inter-planted with red
poppies and snapdragons, or mixed with daylilies in a border.
They also belong in cutting gardens in mixed color combinations
or in blocks of individual colors. The foliage may become rather
ragged and unbecoming as the season progresses especially if the
season has been rainy or very hot so set plants in borders or
beds where the leaves and flowers of other annuals and
perennials will camouflage them.
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Common Name: Love-in-a-Mist
Height: 18 in. Color: Blue
Bloom Season: Summer
Conditions: Full Sun
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Bright
blue semi-double flowers on a sea of soft fernlike foliage. Also
they come in.bright blue to very pale blue, and very rarely
whitish.Once
flowers fade, papery seed pods appear Start indoors or outdoors.
Cover seed well (up to ¼ inch of soil). Germinate at
temperatures of 65-75° F. Germination will occur within 1-2
weeks |
This is a short to
medium annual, usually branched above. The leaves have slender
linear divisions, and the top leaves just below the flower are
swirled.
Habitat.
Fields, roadsides, rocky or waste ground. Often cultivated in
gardens, where varieties have pink, purple and white flowers as
well. |
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| Poached
Egg Plant is auseful edging plant
that has yellow flowers fringed with white. It is very easy to
grow.and will re-seed it self each year.
Height: 6
inches Sow: March to May Flowers: June to September Hardy
annual,
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Larkspurs
are broadly related to Delphiniums but are annuals. Seed raising
is similiar and seeds should be sown in cell trays in March to
May or in September. Transplant seedlings when they reach 3cm
across and protect from pests. You may need to provide support
for the flowering stems as they grow. Plants flower in June
through to September. Prolong flowering by removing spent
flowerheads, the plants may re-shoot from the side. |
- Height:
3 ft
- Hardy
annual
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Fully
double flowers on well branched plants in shades of blue through
pinks to white. Good cut flowers and a lovely addition to the
border. |
| There are many typs
of pot Marigold the Pink Surprise has fiery orange and yellow
flowers that are delicately ruffled, soft orange blooms with a
delightful and unique tinge of pink. Wonderfully easy to grow in
the border or containers, naturalizing if required and a
delightful cut flower too. Flowers summer. Height 45-60cm
(18-24in).
Best sown in spring where they
are to flower or late summer/early autumn for over wintering.
Sow 1cm (½in) deep in rows 30cm (12m) apart in well cultivated
soil which has been well raked. For
winter/early spring flowering pot plants in a cool greenhouse or
conservatory, sow in late summer/early autumn. Thin out the
seedlings to 23cm (9in) apart. They will grow in sun or part
shade and in the poorest of soil. |
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| The foxglove is a
member of the Snapdragon Family. Wherever soil is
disturbed, either by forestry clear-felling or earth moving
prior to construction work, foxgloves are among the first wild
flowers to appear. In hedgerows facing the sunny south, they
provide a splendid display throughout the summer months. July is
their best month
Foxgloves are biennials,
although occasionally plants can live longer than two years
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The foxglove is highly
prized for their tall spikes of beautiful, bell-like
flowers, in pink, blue, or mauve, with dark spots inside the
lip. |
| There are over 300
species of Dianthus, and hundreds more of hybrid varieties. The
group includes annuals, biennials and perennials. Most Dianthus
produce richly fragrant flowers in the spring or summer,
sometimes extending right up until the first frost. Although
Dianthus species vary from 2 inches to 3 feet tall in height,
most garden varieties are 10 to 20 inches tall |
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Dianthus should be
planted where they will receive at least 4-5 hours of full sun
each day. They thrive in fertile, fast draining, slightly
alkaline (pH 6.75) soil. Avoid over-watering because it
may tend to turn the foliage yellow. Usually a weekly watering
of established plants will suffice unless the weather is
extremely dry. Dianthus will often reseed themselves, so don't
be too hasty in removing spent plants from the ground. Perennial
varieties may be propagated by tip cuttings layering or
division. Spent flowers should be removed promptly to promote
continued blooming.
Plant Dianthus species 12 to 18 inches apart and at the same
depth at which they were previously growing. The crown, or top
of the root structure, must be level with the surface of the
soil. (Never bury any part of the stems.) Unlike most
other plants, Dianthus plants should not be mulched. They
require good air circulation around the stems at all times and
must be kept as free from foliage moisture as possible. For
continued blooming feed lightly every 6 to 8 weeks with an
all-purpose (10-10-10) liquid fertilizer.
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Cuttings
Using a sharp clean knife,
take a cutting 3 or 4 inches in length from the top growing tips
or vigorous side shoots. The cut should be made at a slight
angle, just below a node (The point on the stem where a leaf
has developed). Trim off any flower buds and the
lower leaves from the cutting, leaving a stem with 3-4 leaves at
the tip. Dip the cut end into a rooting hormone such as Roottone®
or Hormonex®, and insert the cutting deep enough into sterile
moist sand, vermiculite or sphagnum moss that it will support
itself. At least one node must be buried, but it is better if
there are 2-3 nodes covered. (The nodes are where the new
roots will emerge from.) Water the rooting medium well.
Create a mini-greenhouse over the container with poly film over
a wire frame (an old aquarium works very well for this)
and place it in a bright, warm spot (NOT full sun). Keep the
cuttings at a minimum temperature of 72 degrees, and you will be
rewarded with several new plants in just a few weeks. Keep in
mind that when you are doing any type of plant propagation that
you are doing "plant surgery", and that cleanliness is
extremely important.
Always use a clean, sharp knife and sterile potting medium for
the best results!
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| The best way to
limit the amount of work you have to do in the garden is to make
the plants do the work for you. This may sound silly but it
works, by selecting the right varieties can save hours of hard
work; for example plants that cast their on seeds each year are brilliant
as you have new plants ready planted annually. Also self
clinging climbers and perennials that survive for years without
being divided save a lot of work to avoid weeding think Ground
cover plants, these block out the ground so that weeds cant
get through |
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Avoid pest or
disease prone plants or varieties which need regular pruning.
Try and pick herbaceous plants which do not need supports or
training, to limit the amount of time you spend pinning cords or
canes around your low maintenance garden. Steer clear of
invasive plants and those which will not thrive without regular
attention. dead heading your plants should be the only job that
you should do each week and then only as you walk round the
garden, so that it is not a job. |
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For
isolated containers, consider robust plants such as sedums which
do not need constant watering. Sedums are all just plain
wonderful plants to grow. They are succulents, which means that
they can take low water and maintenance. There are dozens of
species that range from large garden flower hybrids to tiny
species that creep along the ground and intermingle with their
neighbors. Each has some variation of leaf shape and flower
color.
Some species are tender and do best in pots that
can be kept indoors in winter but all three pictured above are
hardy and can be found in the ground cover section of nurseries.
In most cases, they do not form a dense enough mat to prevent
all weed growth and they don't appreciate being walked on, so
they don't make a good lawn substitute. But for edging a border,
filling in a parking strip or for planting a tapestry garden of
low growing plants, they're hard to beat.
Sedum
blooms include all colors but blue depending on the species,
though white and yellow are the most common. They all produce
umbel shaped flowers that are especially attractive to
butterflies. They must produce a fair amount of pollen as well,
because predatory hover flies love them in summer when they are
in flower.
Hover flies (or flower flies, in the family Syrphidae) are
common and important natural enemies of aphids and other small,
slow-moving insects. The adults resemble bees or wasps, and are
often seen visiting flowers, hovering over the flowers and
darting around. There are many different species that range in
size from less than 1/4 inch long to more than 3/4 inch long.
Many have the typical black and yellow stripes on the abdomen
that give them a bee-like appearance, but others are hairy with
a long, thin abdomen.
Hover
flies are not house flies - they eat aphids most of the time but
when their preferred meal isn't abundant, they feed on the
pollen of sedums and other plants with small, pollen-rich
flowers. This keeps them resident in your garden, so they'll be
on the prowl the next time the aphids make a play for your most
favored hybrid tea rose |
Front
to back:
Sedum
spathufolium 'Cape Blanco' - white rosettes
Sedum spurium 'Dragon's Blood'
Sedum anglicum
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The hover fly can be found between mid May and early
October. This species is often commonest early in the
summer
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Planting bulbs among your ground cover plants; for
spring color Tulips, Daffodils and Narcissus. Crocuses are good
if planted in the flower beds and running down in a swath on to
the lawn as by the time it is time to mow the grass the plants
season has finished. followed by Allium varieties, like Allium
christophii and the closely related Nectaroscordium Bulgaricum
will seed around your bed and naturalize well. You could try
Lilies for some end of summer early autumn colour and colchicums
for the autumn inspiration |
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You
should also think of what will happen in the winter, so you do
not have to start replanting each spring. For this reason, go
for hardy plants that will survive the winter cold, without
needing extra protection. Remember if your garden is exposed
then you should plant accordingly. |
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Select the
season that you wish to plan for. and we will give you a list of
plants that look good at that time of year and should be
easy to get your hands on. |
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| Epimedium Versicloor
Yellow flowers with well
marked foliage |
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| Trachystemon Orientalis
Blue shooting star shaped
flowers followed by large green leaves |
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| Vinca Minor (periwinkles)
Evergreen creeping plant with
blue or white flower |
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| Viola Labradorica
Purple foliage, with little
violet flowers |
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| Pulmonaria (lungworts)
Decorative, spotted foliage
with blue or pink spring flowers. |
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| Doronicum (leopardsbane)
Easy to look after perennials
with big yellow daisy flowers. |
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| Artemisia Ludoviciana
Fluffy almost felt like white
foliage covering a spreading root base. |
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| Geranium (Russell Pink)
This plant has an end less
succession of pink flowers which sit amongst a mass of green
leaves |
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| Heuchera (Palace Purple)
A wonderful spread of bronze
evergreen foliage |
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| Holcus Mollis (albovariegatus)
A mat forming grass with green
and white leaves. |
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| Hostas
A huge choice of gorgeous
foliage in gold, blue, green, cream and a lot more |
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| Ligularia clivorum
Large rounded leaves, with orange daisy
flowers on giant plants |
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| Anemone Hybrida (Japanese
anemones)
A tall perennial with pink or
white flowers. |
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| Cotoneaster dammeri
Red berries on prostrate,
creeping stems of shiny evergreen foliage. |
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| Geranium Macrorrhizum
Pink spring flowers, with a
rusty autumn foliage |
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| Liriope Muscari
Tufts of grass like plant with
beaded purple flowers. |
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| Persicaria affine
Leathery foliage, with pritty
red seed capsules follow the summer pink flowers |
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| Rodgersia Podophylla
Large bronze leaves that
emerge on stems directly from the ground. |
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| Bergenia cordifolia
This winter plant has leathery
evergreen leaves, Pink, Purple or white flowers in spring. |
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| Euphorbia amygdaloides ssp
robbiae
Evergreen spur with greenish
flowers. |
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| Galanthus nivalis
(snowdrops)
White carpets of winter
flowers, with a delicate fragrance. this plant is ideal for
planting in the lawn as by the time it come to the mowing season
the plant has finished. |
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| Sarcococca humilis
(Christmas box)
Low evergreen shrub with
winter fragrance |
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| Helleborus foetidus
Dark distinctive leaves, pale
green flowers with red petal edges |
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| Lamium maculatum
Silvery foliage which often persists
through cold weather. |
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When selecting trees and
shrubs for a low maintenance garden, go for the species that
grow at a sedate pace and keep their shape naturally, with out
the need for pruning or training. Fast growing shrubs mat
quickly, but will soon need attention. |
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Broadly speaking,
the best time to plant is in the autumn, after the summer heat
has passed but before the ground is likely to freeze. Dwarf
Conifers, like almost any other tree, spends the winter (when
the ground isn't frozen) growing roots and establishing itself
for the coming spring. Once the ground freezes, however, the
plants stop growing - so the exact best time to plant also
depends on your location and climate.
A second-best time to plant is
in early spring, before the trees have started putting out new
spring growth. It's OK to plant in winter if the ground isn't
frozen - if you experience a dry winter, water your trees when
weather permits. It's OK to plant in midsummer too - just pay
extra attention to keeping your trees watered at the rate of
about 1" per week.
Dwarf
Conifers are extremely easy to maintain - that's what makes them
such perfect landscape plants. They naturally grow into the
desired shape you bought it for - without pruning or shearing!
All they need is an adequate amount of water. |
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Smaller evergreens, especially
dwarf conifers can be planted relatively close together.
try inserting clematis among these to add colour and interest during
the summer. There are varieties of Dwarf Conifers suitable for
almost any growing area. Some prefer shade, some prefer plenty
of light. Some can withstand very harsh winters, others are
happier in more temperate regions. The layout of your landscape
also has an effect You can plant any time of year as long as the
ground isn't actually frozen.
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| Daphnes will grow
in any well-drained soil that does not dry out. Enrichment of
the soil with leaf mould or peat enhances growth, and depending
upon the species, they will thrive in full sun or partial shade
but they do like their roots to remain cool. Daphnes may be
propagated by cuttings or seed when fruits are ripe. Both rooted
cuttings and seedlings |
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should be grown in
pots and planted out when very young since generally they
transplant badly. Seed is best sown in containers in a cold
frame as soon as ripe or it can be collected and stored to be
sown the following spring after being stratified for 6 to 8
weeks in the refrigerator. Plants may also be propagated by
layering in the spring. |
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Daphne mezereum
This species is an erect,
woody, deciduous shrub that grows to about 1.5 metres in height.
The red-purple, extremely fragrant flowers are borne in the
early spring in clusters of two or four, thickly on the previous
year’s wood. The soft grey-green leaves are oblanceolate 4 to
9 centimetres long and appear as the flowers fade. The scarlet
fruits are also attractive and provide later summer colour;
however, they are poisonous. Daphne
mezereum f. alba bears
double, creamy-white flowers and yellow-white fruits; ‘Bowles
Variety’ has white flowers and yellow fruits. |
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Daphne
cneorum (Rose
Daphne, Garland Flower) is perhaps the most commonly grown
species in this area. It is native to the Alps of southeastern
France and northern Italy. This species is often offered by
local nurseries as quite large potted plants. It is an
evergreen, decumbent species spreading to a metre across but no
more than 15 centimetres tall. The leaves are oblanceolate, 2 to
2.5 centimetres long, dark green above and greyish below. The
fragrant rich-pink flowers are borne in dense terminal clusters
during the early summer, while the fruits are ovoid-oblong
orange to brown. This species thrives best in full sun. Its lush
foliage is sufficient to provide coolness for its own roots but
plants may benefit from mulching under the leaves, and over the
soil with stones.
Daphne cneorum
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Daphne x
burkwoodii is a
cultivar developed originally by M. Alberta Burkwwod (England)
from a cross between Daphne caucasia x Daphne
cneorum. It is a semi evergreen shrub that grows more
quickly than Daphne mezereum reaching a height of
1 metre. The fragrant flowers are white flushing to rose and
mauve-pink, and develop in early summer. One of the cultivars
called ‘Carol Mackie’ has leaves edged with bright,
yellow gold. |
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Thick Mulches
spread between shrubs, or among newly planted ground cover
plants, will help to conserve soil moisture and will also
discourage weed seedlings to develop. A mulch is any material
applied to the soil surface for protection or improvement of the
area covered. Mulches are frequently applied around plants to
modify the soil environment and enhance plant growth. The mulch
material may be organic such as bark, wood chips, leaves, pine
needles, grass clippings or similar material; or inorganic such
as gravel, pebbles, |
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| Mulching
has beneficial effects upon the soil and plants. |
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- Mulches can prevent
loss of water from the soil by evaporation. Moisture moves
by capillary action to the surface and evaporates if the
soil is not covered by a mulch.
Mulches suppress weeds when the
mulch material itself is weed-free and applied deeply enough
to prevent weed germination or to smother existing small
weeds.
A more uniform soil temperature can
be maintained by mulching. The mulch acts as an insulator
that keeps the soil cool under intense sunlight and warm
during cold weather.
Mulching will
prevent crusting of the soil surface, thus improving
absorption and percolation of water into the soil and, at
the same time, reducing erosion.
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- Organic materials
used as a mulch can improve soil structure and tilth. As
mulch decays, the material becomes topsoil. Decaying mulch
may also add nutrients to the soil.
Mulches also add to the beauty of
the landscape by providing a cover of uniform color and
interesting texture to the surface.
Mulched plants will produce roots
in the mulch that surrounds them. These roots are produced
in addition to the roots that a plant produces in the soil.
As a result, mulched plants have more roots than un-mulched
plants
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Mulch entire beds
of shrubs, trees, annuals, perennials and/or ground covers.
Mulching is an extremely important practice for establishing
plantings. Mulch helps to conserve moisture in the root ball of
the new plant until it establishes roots in the adjacent
landscape soil. Mulch also helps discourage weeds that can
compete with new plantings for water, nutrients and light.
Mulch can be used instead
of grass around individual trees and shrubs in a lawn. This
greatly reduces the competition for water and nutrients from the
turf and increases the growth rate and health of trees and
shrubs. When placed around plants in a vegetable garden, mulch
can help to conserve water and control weeds.
In addition to being
useful around plants, mulch can be used as a ground cover for
walks, trails, driveways, and play and natural areas. It can be
used temporarily to cover low-growing tender plants to protect
them from frost injury. Mulch also can be composted and used as
a soil amendment.
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| When
and how to Mulch |
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Mulch can be
applied around established plants at any time. Newly-set plants
should be mulched after they are planted and thoroughly watered.
Because of the abundance of leaves and pine needles, fall is an
excellent time to collect leaves and other yard trash for
mulching plants.
Organic mulches will gradually decompose and need
replenishing to function effectively as a mulch. Shallow plant
roots grow up and into moist mulch and they will die if the
mulch is allowed to decay or wash away. How often mulch needs to
be replenished will depend on the mulching material. Grass
clippings and leaves decompose very rapidly and need to be
replenished frequently. Other organic mulches such as cypress
mulch, pine bark and wood chips break down very slowly and need
only be replenished every year or two. Once plants in a ground
cover or shrub bed have formed a solid mass by touching one
another, the mulching requirement is reduced. The plants create
their own mulch by dropping leaves, flowers and fruit. Leaves
from surrounding trees also may fall in the beds and provide
additional "free mulch." Most organic mulches will
change from their original colors to a weathered grey color with
age. There are several ways of restoring color to mulches. One
approach is to apply a thin (1 inch or less) layer of fresh
mulch to the surface of the existing mulch. This approach is
labor intensive, expensive and can result in an excessively
thick mulch layer. Another approach is to shallow rake the
existing mulch to restore a freshly mulched appearance. A third
choice is to use a mulch colorant. Mulch colorants are dyes that
are sprayed on the mulch to restore its color. Manufacturers
claim they are harmless to both plants and animals, but
applicators should use them cautiously as they can cause skin
and eye irritation.
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Inorganic mulches
such as gravel, pebbles and stones are considered permanent
mulches and rarely need replenishing. Still, small particles
will eventually move down into the soil and a thin layer of
gravel will need to be added to the existing layer of gravel.
Leaves and other debris also need to be regularly removed from
the top of these materials to maintain a neat appearance.
How
to:
Mulch entire plant beds with a layer of mulching
material. When mulching individual trees in lawns, create a
circle of mulch about 2 feet in diameter for each inch of trunk
diameter. Increase the size of the mulched area as the tree
grows.
Pull mulch 1 to 2 inches away from the stems and trunks
of plants. The high moisture environment created by mulch
increases the chances of stem or trunk rot which can result in
plant death.
How
Deep:
The amount of mulch to apply will depend on the texture
and density of the mulch. Many wood and bark mulches are
composed of fine particles and should not be more than 2 to 3
inches deep after settling. Excessive amounts of these
fine-textured mulches around shallow-rooted plants can suffocate
their roots causing chlorosis and poor growth. Course-textured
mulches such as pine needles and pine bark nuggets, which allow
good air movement through them, can be maintained as deep as 4
inches.
Mulches composed solely of shredded leaves, small leaves
(oak leaves), or grass clippings should never exceed a 2-inch
depth. These materials have flat surfaces and tend to mat
together, restricting the water and air supply to plant roots. |
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To Much |
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As beneficial as
mulch is, too much can be harmful. The generally recommended
mulching depth is 2 to 4 inches. Unfortunately, Some landscapes
are falling victim to a plague of over mulching. A new term,
"mulch volcanoes," has emerged to describe mulch that
has been piled up around the base of trees. Most organic mulches
must be replenished, but the rate of decomposition varies. Some
mulches, such as cypress mulch, remain intact for many years.
Top dressing with new mulch annually (often for the sake of
refreshing the color) creates a build-up to depths that can be
unhealthy. Deep mulch can be effective in suppressing weeds and
reducing maintenance, but it often causes additional problems. |
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- Deep mulch can lead to
excess moisture in the root zone, which can stress the plant
and cause root rot.
- Piling mulch against the
trunk or stems of plants can stress stem tissues, and may
lead to insect and disease problems.
- Some mulches, especially
those containing cut grass, can affect soil pH. Continued
use of certain mulches over long periods can lead to
micronutrient deficiencies or toxicities.
- Mulch piled high against
the trunks of young trees may create habitats for rodents
that chew the bark and can girdle the trees.
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- Thick blankets of fine
mulch can become matted, and may prevent the penetration of
water and air. In addition, a thick layer of fine mulch can
become like potting soil and may support weed growth.
- Anaerobic "sour"
mulch may give off pungent odors, and the alcohols and
organic acids that build up may be toxic to young plants.
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Correct
Mulching.
It is clear that the choice of mulch
and the method of application can be important to the
health of landscape plants. The following are some guidelines to
use when applying mulch. |
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- Inspect plants and soil
in the area to be mulched. Determine whether drainage is
adequate. Determine whether there are plants that may be
affected by the choice of mulch. Most commonly available
mulches work well in most landscapes. Some plants may
benefit from the use of a slightly acidifying mulch such
as pine bark.
- If mulch is already
present, check the depth. Do not add mulch if there is a
sufficient layer in place. Rake the old mulch to break
up any matted layers and to refresh the appearance. Some
landscape maintenance companies spray mulch with a
water soluble, vegetable-based dye to improve the
appearance.
- If mulch is piled
against the stems or tree trunks, pull it back several
inches so that the base of the trunk and the root crown
is exposed.
- Organic mulches are
usually preferred to inorganic materials due to their
soil-enhancing properties. If organic mulch is used, it
should be well aerated and, preferably, composted. Avoid
sour-smelling mulch.
- Composted wood chips
can make good mulch, especially when they contain a
blend of leaves, bark, and wood. Fresh wood chips may
also be used around established trees and shrubs. Avoid
using uncomposted wood chips that have been piled deeply
without exposure to oxygen.
- For well-drained sites,
apply a 2- to 4-inch layer. If there are drainage
problems, a thinner layer should be used. Avoid placing
mulch against the tree trunks. Mulch out to the tree’s
drip line or beyond.
Remember: if the tree had a say in the matter, its entire root
system (which usually extends well beyond the drip line) would
be mulched.
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